Dress Construction
(Last update May 29, 2002)
Split Drawers or what we call now panteloons. They were not ALWAYS worn. But from
expirience I would wear them! They could be made from cotton or linen
A Chemise. To go without one would be PAINFUL! It could be made from cotton or linen.
Stockings. Held up with garters.
Corset or stay. If you want to look the part you MUST wear one. They are not as
uncomfortable as you might think. Usually made from coutil or cotton drill. The closures
were usually a busk down the from..... There are a surviving few with hooks and eyes.
Metal boning. String steel prefered. Most others bend to easily and do not hold up to the
job.
Corset cover. Usually made from cotton or linen.
A crinoline, hoop skirt, petticoats, or corded skirt. If you are wearing a crinoline or
hoop skirt you would need to wear a underskirt and over skirts/petticoats. If you choose
to wear just petticoats you would wear at least 2 but not more than 4.
Now you are ready for the dress.....
The typical work or day dress was ONE piece dress with the front opening to the left of
the skirt rather than the center. The dress would usually have a collar (Which was lined
and had a bias strip to whip stitch to the edge) and sometimes undersleeves. It would
usually be bonned (with the exception of maternity and work dresses) with steel boning
(NOT PLASTIC!) and most dresses were FLAT LINED (NOT BAG LINED!). The seams were flat
felled or whipstitched to prevent fraying. Very few dresses were interlined unless the
material was EXTREMLY thin. The same with the skirts. Closures were hooks and eyes and
buttons and button holes. The skirt was USUALLY faced or had a hem gaurd to prolong the
life of the skirt. The dress could be made from cotton, silk, etc. (sorry no polyester
ladies!) A few things most people do not know.... Piping was no larger than 1/16 inch, the
back piece section was no wider than 2 inches, the back seams were were top stitched, and
pipping was always the same material as the dress.
Belts. They were sometimes the same fabric as the skirt!
Gloves or Mitts. Black for day wear and white for evening.
Boots. Typically buttons or elastic on the side.
Bonnet or hat. One would always have something on the head when you go out.
Bag or purse. Sometimes decorated with fringe and tassles.
Now you are ready to go out. And looking very fine. :-)